Every summer since I moved from California to Ohio I've gone back to California to surf and visit my family. This summer wasn't any different I left in early in August for a 3-week vacation. When I arrived at LAX airport I was picked up by my brother and drove to his house, which is 15 minutes away. As soon as I arrived at his house I showered, than started the 2-hour drive through traffic to …showed first 75 words of 649 total…

…showed last 75 words of 649 total…my board and helped me back to the car. The next day the waves were huge even bigger than the night before. I surfed all day at Little Dume and I surfed Malibu point again that night. I had almost drowned the night before. I hoped never to be in the position I was that night again, but in order to experience the ultimate thrill you have to be willing to pay the ultimate price.